https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog daily 1.0 2023-09-28 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/a-hrefhttpswwwpatreoncompostsone-more-band-89702073one-more-band-sample-downa monthly 0.5 2023-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/4399b375-fe75-4b4d-8be8-581afd3a56a0/20230923_020617464_iOS.jpg Blog - Latest Tablet-Woven Band - Some history here… So tablet weaving is the first form of weaving I ever learned. It was a class I took at a medical camping event outside the tiny town of Clinton, BC. One of those places that sprang up in the gold rush and still hasn’t changed much. I really enjoy this form of weaving - it has been a popular form of weaving all over the world for over two millennia and a few of us keep it going. Peter Collingwood once referred to tablet weavers as those in an “almost willful pursuit of complexity”. I don’t think he’s wrong. But having said that, I’ve never tried to reach more than one day of it so the idea of teaching five is a little daunting. The first day will be indigo dyeing for the silk, next day is 5-6th Century Anglo Saxon metal brocade and then I’ve decided to zing a little and do two pieces from the Finnish Iron Age (one 11th and the other 13th Century). Both these bands will teach slightly different techniques but should be a solid basis for the students to explore different types of tablet weaving. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/6bbd90f0-2fd0-4b4b-8174-119d6e3f05d4/20230923_021020941_iOS.jpg Blog - Latest Tablet-Woven Band - Finnish Iron Age Band This band I cut off the loom tonight looks a little like historical weaving meets late 1980s airport carpeting but it uses double turns (where some cards are turned 180° while the rest are only turned 90°). I wanted to show the students that these turns give you the option for sharp ends to different angles. Pattern is from the historical Tablet-Woven Treasures book, available here. Great book! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/142f0377-0c7e-4242-aaa2-39a389f88aa4/20230923_021039101_iOS.jpg Blog - Latest Tablet-Woven Band - Future Planning I also booked my flights tonight and mailed off a treasure of dye mushrooms on Thursday so everything is pretty much set. Last thing is I’ll need to weave some brocade samples and then that’s about it. Hard to believe! If the class is a hit I’ll definitely think about coming to teach it again. It’s been many, many hours to develop it, would hate to waste all that effort. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/lupine-time monthly 0.5 2023-05-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/8fa81f92-5083-418a-95ac-9e5a5e86fb08/00B67094-5360-4806-B2D0-9CBAB752CC23.jpg Blog - Lupine time! - Such colours! Common Lupine https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1684864752222-934LQK7OUTTL53CX6XND/76CC1206-61A9-425A-9370-12AB81D927C7.jpg Blog - Lupine time! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1684864765118-BZQ957ETVC670PN1391D/DD38DC0B-B687-40FD-91CB-5F47CAFB1851.jpg Blog - Lupine time! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1684864754170-1VEZ6WWWLLUA9HQ39I38/A61CAABA-4D82-4A54-B794-A082EDB00219.jpg Blog - Lupine time! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1684864764821-Q0R3PMM3FP3T32MY6DAX/E9C0668F-E178-4751-B965-8664287364BB.jpg Blog - Lupine time! https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/creeping-buttercup monthly 0.5 2021-07-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934389589-YZ28XHVY3IRWURCACQYV/20210525_162511363_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Roadside attraction This time of year, the roads are lined with buttercup and the waxy bright yellow flowers are visible, spread out like stars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934424159-ME3WZ5BIWCN3P7QK39ZB/20210525_163523302_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Focus on flowers For this project, I decided to try dyeing with just the flowers. So much of my dyeing this spring has been flowering plants and in general I find that including the leaves and stems can push colours more into the greens. For this project, I wanted to see how bright a yellow I could get. Numbers: Collected 105 grams of flowers. Wool skein weighting 12 grams, premordanted with alum (16% Weight of Fiber - WOF). Dye to fiber WOF of 857% (105:12). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934497794-NCGXIQNX9HPZ7LVMGEFU/20210525_170308188_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Chopped up I started the process by first chopping up the flowers using scissors. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934582460-EO708WL96AWTZL0XB2SI/20210525_170646310_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Into the sack For dyeing these days, I’ve come to rely on mesh paint bags (either 1 or 5 gallon sizes). Here, I placed the buttercup into a 1-gallon mesh bag (available at most paint stores). The bag is then placed into a 2-liter glass jar and heated in a pot using the double boiler method. This way, the buttercup was simmered (~80°C) for one hour and allowed to cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934743453-YJPDI2T1KFETS5PA8XM4/20210525_182045286_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Removing the flowers The nice part of using the mesh bag like this is that it can easily be removed leaving a dye vat ready for dyeing. I came across this method in a workshop by Alissa Allen (mycopigments). From here, the exhausted flowers can go straight into the composter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934770072-ECF0O5CFOHP51L4XYSMS/20210525_182056871_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Presoaked fiber The wool skein was presoaked for about an hour in warm tap water. It was then added directly into the jar of dye liquid. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934796705-ALS0HUOO386NK4JVRN3I/20210525_182116563_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Yellows emerge Presoaking the fiber allows it to sink completely into the liquid and allows for a more even colour uptake. Here the skein was simmered for an hour. I gave it gentle stirrings every 10 minutes or so and gave it a flip at the half way mark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934881108-TNZLSV5ZLPZTX2PFXUIY/20210525_194121708_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - An hour later After the hour, the yarn emerged a luminous buttery yellow. The shade is deep, cheerful and feels full of life. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622934963040-LWXMRUX9BRR0MIOK72DC/20210525_194434749_iOS.jpg Blog - Creeping Buttercup - Results The deep yellow shades within the yarn came through beautifully. Buttercup flowers transfer their colour to yarn beautifully and is an undervalued local dyer. I’ll definitely be looking to scale up these results on more yarn. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/mushroom-boletus-edulis monthly 0.5 2021-06-27 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415298102-IWH7DECKBNQ4Y0TFUFTY/IMG_3724.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - In situ These three B. edulis were found under some oak trees at a local school and were about to be removed when I intercepted them for the pot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415367084-472FRUOVUNPDD6DST3VV/IMG_3727.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - The cap The cap of Boletes tend to start out looking like bakery buns, before rounding out into a convex shape. The colours in these were amazing - really orange and yellows. They looked a little like Hollywood versions of mushrooms. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415406389-92IVS2UU64Q9S1SG7KI7/IMG_3726.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Under the hood Underneath the cup are the tubes - these start out white but become yellow with age. These were peeled away from the rest of the mushroom and dried in the dehydrator. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415551039-XI64PFF1Q22EEGB9KSL3/20210622_192358932_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Tubes were weighed and measured When I was ready to start dyeing, I weighed out my fiber first. In this case, I had two hanks - one premordanted with alum and the other with iron. Together they weighed 26 grams. I wanted to use a 2:1 fiber to dried mushroom ration so I weighed out 52 grams of dried tubes. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415671804-XVD20C1W74GOZAM8ZG8D/20210622_192549162_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Dye vat The dried tubes were then placed into a paint mesh bag and then all into a 2-liter glass jar with tap water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415797605-K7XHE4C6HVL85NM5XWHK/20210622_195045698_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Double boiler method The jar went into the dye pot with water and simmered for one hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415830876-5QXVMCA7RJCTW0C8A53C/20210622_205241769_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Bag out , fiber in The mesh bag was removed (with the mushroom bits) and the pre-wetted fiber was added in. The fiber was then simmered for another hour and allowed to cool. The smell from the jar was truly compelling - a rich, earthy, meaty smell. Difficult to describe but so divine. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624415970396-8A1NSMUDWZMC5BN8IUOC/20210622_215716282_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Results With the alum mordant (and a splash of vinegar), the colour came out a buttery yellow. The yarn also smells divine - earthy, rich and meaty. It’s an incredible smell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624416013953-YS25P9LWU58CV1TGQKZK/20210622_215754455_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Results With the iron mordant (and a splash of vinegar), the colour came out more or less the standard medium tan colour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1624418328223-4KWLH0RHK3JKOEHHX7FM/20210622_215938377_iOS.jpg Blog - Mushroom: Boletus edulis - Ultimately The best part about this yarn is definitely the smell - earthy, rich and meaty. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/galium-aparine-common-bedstraw monthly 0.5 2021-06-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621639967194-ZW7EDQDGVBS3OXQQ4L21/20210512_164947868_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Cleavers Is a taprooted annual common in gardens, roadsides, beaches and urban parks here in the Pacific Northwest. Once you recognize it, is seems to be growing everywhere. I located this patch within a small grove of trees which was due to be cleared. I decided to move ahead with harvesting as much as I could before the area could be made into a parking lot. Like many of the colours I work with, the dyed yarn becomes one of the last reminders of a forest that isn’t with us anymore. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621640083928-OHQVJURYZBB8MYZJT405/20210518_192737397_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Whole plant The above ground portion of cleavers is significantly larger than the roots as in the photo on the left. Here you can see multiple stems coming from a single taproot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621640124713-N63F6DZ50KD7E8L3R3W2/20210518_192741180_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Closeup: roots This was the stage of the harvest where I began to wonder if I wasn’t completely wasting my time. The roots are a pale yellow when they first emerge, nothing about them reminded me of working with madder yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621640384541-CSH1ZBFNQ9J20B30ZGNH/20210518_193713496_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Fruits of the harvest This tidy little pile of roots is about half an hour of work. They are still tangled up with a significant amounts of vegetation matter, soil and rocks that will have to be removed at home. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622930750245-OIMZJ1SSHYZ5CEOYDAHR/20210512_232430624_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Rinsing Once home, I started to rinse the roots in small batches, picking out any extra materials. I kept at it until I saw the water the roots were soaking in begin to take on a reddish hue and I was concerned I was losing some of the dye potential. Looking over the roots, I estimated about 20% of the weight of the roots was still this extraneous material so I added that into my calculations for weighing the roots below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622931181162-CUJ3KS9HY072WDP2WF4Y/20210519_164318325_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Drying the roots Once the roots started to dry, they began to take on more of a red hue which definitely helped me feel less like I was wasting my life collecting living sewing thread from dirt. Maybe life has meaning after all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621641502728-L5W70B3RFMWOW8HZW1MG/20210519_171013808_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Chop chop Once dry, I chopped up the roots quite finely in a small metal bowl using scissors. The root mass weighs about 17.9 grams (145.7 g - 127.8 g for the bowl = 17.9 g). I also estimated above that about 20% of this weight is excess matter that remained with the roots (80%) which has no dye value, for a total of 14.3 g of roots (17.9g x0.80 = 14.3g). Roots = 14.3 g. Wool skein = 5.9 g. Weight of Fiber is 242% WOF, or aka I used approximately 2.4 times more roots than wool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621641880119-YR6IIF3OXOXDM0H4VSI8/20210519_171858576_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Dye vat The cleavers was added to a 2-liter glass jar with water. The excess soil and vegetable matter started to drop down as the roots stayed floating. Still very little indication of the dye potential here before heat was added. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621641909841-XZECDZC3NH54CIFCBXF2/20210519_184010754_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Simmering The jar was heated to a simmer for an hour in a double boiler set up. The liquid slowly began to turn a deep orange. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621641973055-5PRZ14L6ZBM0TT3DQK20/20210519_184052006_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Adding the wool The wool skein had been previously mordanted with an alum solution at 16% WOF for an hour simmer before being dried and stored. While the roots were simmered, this wool was soaked for an hour in warm water and added to a 1-gallon mesh paint bag. These bags are so great for keeping the fiber and dye material apart. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621642018781-ZIHBSX3TD1YNL9OB4YV1/20210519_193602445_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Quick colour Within 10 minutes, the wool began to take a surprisingly rich coral red. Unlike madder which makes a dark orange with our (6.5 pH) tap water, instead cleavers has clear tones within the pink-red spectrum. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621642092477-9K5K5WJOTJGDLMWLTTG5/20210519_215242247_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Experimenting Knowing that boosting the pH deepens the red shades of madder, I was curious what would happen if I did something similar with cleavers. I took out most of the wool, and left a small amount in the dye vat. I then added 1/4 tsp of washing soda which boosted the pH to 11 (from 6.5) and left it to soak for 5 mins. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621642214351-6LW0IR68X6QXH0IIAIGL/20210519_215642074_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Results left to right: Skein 1 (small): Premordant of alum (16%), G. aparine (242% WOF), pH of 11. Colour: dark coral. Skein 2 (big): Premordant of alum (16%), G. aparine (242% WOF), pH of 6.5. Colour: coral/pinky red. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622328915862-FW65PX2IYJNWOOYE5CED/20210519_215340549_iOS.jpg Blog - Galium aparine: aka Common Bedstraw or Cleavers - Take Away The results were a fun surprise and I’ve already started collecting more for future dyeing. I wonder what yarn dyed with 500% WOF might look like? Ultimately, I feel the extra effort to forage and process the cleavers was worth totally it. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/cedar-bark-dyeing-2-black monthly 0.5 2021-06-14 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621648196667-764E5E7A0V26FAVGVF8N/IMG_9989.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - It started out this way The cedar bark I dye usually comes pre-dried and cut into bundles of a variety of widths based on inches - 1/8”, 1/4”, 1/2” and 1”. These widths are then used for a variety of projects by cedar bark weavers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085746546-0Y4KJRYNQ0D0V3ZNPZ6Y/IMG_8810.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Split it up into piles I then start splitting it up the bark into smaller piles depending on the colour requests. I then weigh each pile to guide the colour processes. One of these piles is for black. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621648435471-QNQLHMOUU0DKBT77IVHG/IMG_9995.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Metals Cedar bark can drastically change colour in the presence of metals such as iron and copper. Iron for example will produce a wide range of deep greys (and I’m still exploring acheiving a true black just with iron). Many people use a solution they make themselves of rusty nails. I use ferrous sulfate which I pick up through Maiwa, either 10% WOF or about 1/2 to 1 tbsp (if I’m feeling lazy) depending on the amount of cedar bark I want to dye. It doesn’t need to be exact though if the solution is very strong, it can degrade the cedar bark and it can shred easily once dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621648467596-QCE4HX0RHV1JGS28DGYD/IMG_9994.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - 10% WOF WOF stands for weight of fiber - so if you’re measuring out iron to make a dye solution, you can use 10% ferrous sulfate to weight of cedar. For example, if you have 107 grams of cedar bark, you’d want to measure out about 10.7 grams of ferrous sulfate. I then dissolve this in a glass jar filled with hot water. That jar is then poured into a pot of water large enough to submerge the cedar. I keep stirring until everything has dissolved. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622086022158-6GL4U0T414HARECXZVHB/20200520_230034376_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Soak the bundles I find the bundles need to be soaked first in (just) water before they are unraveled. This softens them up and prevents the cedar from splitting. I usually soak them for about 5 minutes in warm tapwater. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085252681-RUS7YE2AEGL269XTKLYZ/IMG_9996.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Bundles into the pot with iron Once the cedar has soaked to the point it’s soft (and noticeably more colourful), it’s added to the pot with the iron solution. I usually ensure the cedar stays submerged by using a pot lid (smaller size than the dye pot) to perch on top of the cedar (unlike this picture). It’s important all the cedar is underwater for even colour take up. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085277536-JY3AP4JWI0XE9OXEFC3J/IMG_9998.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Simmer and simmer and simmer If you’re aiming for a grey tone, simply watch the cedar every 10 mins or so and take it out when it’s the shade you’re after. For really dark shades, cedar can take longer than wool. Here, I’ve gotten a dark grey by simmering for 3 hours. Dyeing cedar bark can be an all day affair. You can also skip the heat and use the iron solution in a bucket to soak the bark for about 3 days for similar results. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085340737-DI4C8LZDTV7H424DRIWH/IMG_9075.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - 51 Shades of Grey Results using 10% iron (WOF) and simmering for 3 hours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085384946-OCPYDAQ2RB6LBPHGPNNU/20200703_200751574_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - True Black There are several ways to achieve a true black with cedar bark. This is just the one I experimented with until I got black. I used logwood - this concentrated dyer is the heart of the logwood tree (Haematoxylon campechianum), which I picked up dried and preshredded at Maiwa. If aiming for a true black, use a whopping 50% WOF dried logwood to cedar bark (I also tried 25% WOF but only got a very dark grey). I add the logwood to the dye pot at the same time as the iron and let it simmer for an hour before adding in the cedar bark. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085422319-5ADMUXR45IJ0HV84WMBB/IMG_0004.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - 3-hour simmer When it comes to colours from plants, cedar bark seems to take a little longer than wool to be convinced. A 3-hour simmer gives this black. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085561844-QXOCGGYLCAG4IKVU332X/IMG_9093.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Results The combination of 10% iron WOF and 50% logwood WOF over a three hour simmer gives a reliable black. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622085586163-N7XP63WZ77Q0Z4NE6ZNB/IMG_0005.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Black and Grey - Drying I’d like to experiment with using metals like iron and copper over a longer, unheated period (weeks? months?) and see if that will give a true black as well. There’s always more to try. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/hus7w42nv030asw5dmmool82jddiap monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621288144637-RLLFMRB3MZ6XGXJS90WY/20210312_010221249_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Photo: Oregon Grape root shavings These posts are going to focus on the intersection of modern natural knowledge and materials with cedar bark, and not traditional historic dyeing apart from one article available here. Published in 1916, it describes an interview with a man named Chem/Steve from the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nation (described as “'the Clayoquots”) on the western side of Vancouver Island. Chem shares the traditional sources of five colours on cedar bark and grasses that his family uses: Black: “The black, and it is a black that will not fade, is obtained by covering the rushes, grasses or bark with the black mud of the swamps, which gives a lasting jet equal to any imported dye” Red: “Bark of the alder” Pink: “Weaker solution of the same bark” Brown: “Familiar tanbark* of the hemlock” Yellow: “Boiled out root of the Oregon Grape” I wanted to share this publicly-available example of the rich, ancient history of textile arts on this coast: a history which very much includes natural dyeing. Thank you Chem for sharing your knowledge with the world. *Tanbark: describes bark that has been bruised and broken usually as a byproduct of forestry, it can be used for various applications including hide tanning. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621289035273-RLHJMRGYRMBI4QIN6NHM/20200626_162840316_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - 200 grams starting material A friend passed over some bundles of cedar bark of various widths (1/4”, 1/2” and 1’’) so I got to work. First thing I did was weigh them all. So I wasn’t sure how to use alder bark to get red so I decided to go with what I did know: cochineal. I was inspired by my friend Stephanie Leon Riedl who got a true red on cedar without any pH adjustment. It turns out the acidic nature of cedar ensures a deep red with cochineal, unlike wools which usually give fuchsias. Thank you Stephanie for sharing this knowledge and for helping provide feedback and ideas on this blog entry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621291601425-PAHA8LXU3DIDDVCIHHBD/20200701_211228594_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - The soak I started by soaking the cedar in (just) warm water for about an hour to loosen it up and dissolve away some of the sap. After this, I took the cedar out and dissolved in 15% Weight of Fiber (WOF) of alum (60 grams) and 1 tbsp of tannin. The tannin I added to help the mordant and the dye absorb into the plant material. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621292089528-SQB9HLN41EC4BXQ9WBYE/20200814_191258973_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Ground up the cochineal Cochineal (Dactylopius coccus) is a scale insect native to South America and southeastern US. It contains a powerful dye - carmine, which is pH sensitive and gives deep, stable shades of reds and pinks to vibrant purples. I wanted to experiment and use as little as possible to get a bright red purely for cost purposes and reduce waste. I order my cochineal and most of my dye supplies I don’t harvest myself from Maiwa. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621292325583-5H888H5EONU8T9YCDF6A/20200702_002243785_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Colour change I poured out the alum-infused water, rinsed the cedar and set up a new pot with warm water. I then started with only 2% WOF (4 grams) of cochineal to create the dye vat. I let the cochineal simmer in the pot for about an hour and then added in the cedar and let the pot simmer for another hour. The colour came out a fairly dull pale red, so I redid this same process with the following totals until I was happy with the colour: 4% WOF (8 grams) 8% WOF (16 grams) 16% WOF (32 grams) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621292632302-CRVN86KFGWDK4R25M7WM/20200826_151913568_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - The right balance At 16% WOF, the colour was finally a deep satisfying shade of red. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621292762273-3NU425OSTZBHR5774NAQ/20200821_183341456_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Results Final product was deep, even red. The lushness of the red did fade once dry though. The bundles were retied and passed back to the weaver. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621295677325-KR3VXWOILBULMCGFPPEW/20200911_051648984_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Example Here is a woven basket with cedar bark I dyed with cochineal. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621642830948-EZUYFW0M72IIVJ01K71S/IMG_9072.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - Results: These are the final dried bundles ready to go back to the weaver. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1621292811962-WE863OSFF5NMLGZKO8BY/20200821_221633318_iOS.jpg Blog - Cedar Bark Dyeing - Red - General tips: Do not add cream of tartar to your mordant when dyeing with cedar (as is often done with wools). This inhibits the update of colour and cannot be reversed no matter how much cochineal is added. This photo on right is an example of the colour I got with cochineal with alum and cream of tartar. Sadness. Keep wool and cedar apart for dyeing. The cedar releases a lot of sap which will gum up the wool. After multiple dye pots with cedar, my pots started to build up a film and I think I might get a separate setup to ensure the sappy film doesn’t effect future wool dyeing. Cedar and dye material can be freely added into the same dye pot (i.e., dye material won’t stick to the cedar). The cedar seemed to take the colour evenly and easily. Changing the pH of a dyevat with cedar bark and cochineal does not change the colour of the bark (as it does with wool). In fact, by experimenting with shifting the pH up, I completely shredded some bark and rendered it pretty much useless. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/dandelion-part-1 monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968630185-RVEZGZ1TIYEXWZBMU88V/20210420_205215032_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Maya the Bee Introducing my children to the wonders of natural dyeing has been a really easy way to get free labour. Here my daughter is helping collect the dandelions. For this dye vat, we collected the entire plants (minus the roots). I’ll also show below the colour you can get just dyeing with the flowers alone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968842813-EUBA8FDNFRS6356YTPD5/20210420_212852213_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Dandelion plants Once collected, the roots were sniped off and the dirt shaken off. After this, the plants were chopped up with scissors over the dye pot. I didn’t weigh the plants but there is approximately 8 liters worth once chopped up (approximately the same volume as 2 x 1-gallon milk jugs). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968888952-9UUSG73THIE788BSHX1Q/20210420_223306233_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Simmering Once chopped, the plants were simmered for an hour in water and left to cool. The deep green of the plants faded into yellow, tans and paler greens. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968911501-75WPUNXPKE28HB4FL03A/20210420_224120831_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Pre-soaking the wool Into the dye vat I wanted to dye two 10 gram skeins - one pre-mordanted with iron and the other with alum. I generally soak them separately (as seen here in two jars) for anywhere from 20 mins to an hour. This is so if there is any excess iron it won’t contaminate the alum-mordanted skein - to this end, I also give the premordanted with iron skein a good rinse before it’s soaked. This all helps ensure the skeins will both sink into the dye vat and will dye even colours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968936748-PQ6PU2AERERYLNMLJ5U9/20210420_225830772_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - In they go As usual, I used a 1-gallon paint mesh bag from the paint store to help prevent the dye stuff from tangling up the yarn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620968997966-EHEGE8VFPB70ABVPPVFW/20210420_225844840_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Simmered for 1 hour I sank the bag under the dandelion plants and simmered for an hour. I occasionally poked at it, stirred and flipped it over twice to help ensure even colour uptake. Then the dye vat was left to cool and the skeins were rinsed out. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1622237775141-HU2R2JKA8KVHTIH6OQIX/20210421_012307102_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Results left to right: Skein 1: Premordanted with iron, dark chocolate brown. Skein 2: premordanted with alum, cheerful yellow. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620969292403-BXXV27B3WF37FBFZH04J/20210427_202409948_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Bonus! What about dyeing with just the flower heads? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620969405033-GWUNN3GR3CQSNPTV2KKF/20210427_203531969_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - 95 grams of flowers Two skeins premordanted with alum for a total of 23 grams of fiber. For a total of 412% Weight of fiber, or a ratio of approximately 4:1 fresh flowers to fiber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620969557288-XBN7VR61720G7TPT12BS/20210427_203738564_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Chopped up The flowers were added to a pot with about 8 litres of water. As they were floating at the surface, it was easy to chop them up at a leisurely pace. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620969584506-BJTMRZ9WVMD10TVTWA0S/20210427_211731312_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Wool simmered for 1 hour The wool skein (premordanted with alum) was placed into another 1-gallon mesh bag, pre-soaked for an hour while the flowers were being simmered. After the dye vat had cooled, I added the wool and simmered again for an hour before leaving it to cool and the wool to be rinsed off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620969679420-KDR83I36EXJO634AN6AY/20210427_231411089_iOS.jpg Blog - Dandelion - Results from the flowers: The colour with just the flowers came out a brighter, purer yellow than the whole plant - with no green undertones. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/scotch-broom-do-two-varieties-dye-differently monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620945413186-WFOAGRG9N20UMYW6JU4V/20210512_170802528_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Harvesting Site Areas under power lines in BC are often cleared every 7-10 years to keep the area accessible for maintenance. As this inhibits the forest’s natural ability to regenerate, the system is kept in an early seral stage and vulnerable to invasive plant species like Scotch broom and Himalayan blackberries (visible just off to the left). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620945788808-K8Y18IKDUSIU5ZR2XT2J/20210512_170920143_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Scotch broom, Allgold variety The majority of the site was covered with the traditional all yellow Scotch broom. Though other varieties of this shrub are available with flowers in colours such as pale yellow, bright orange, red or shades of pink. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620945819264-IOJIOYG6A80M5SM6GM2I/20210512_171512449_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Scotch Broom, Andreanus variety I noticed that several shrubs in the area had these deep red brownish-red wing petals. It turns out this is one of common ornamental varieties of Scotch broom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620946926088-5PX5OJP2AUAOZON9AZQ8/20210512_171756206_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Separate but together I wanted to see how dyeing with each variety might result in different colours. So much like the rest of us during this pandemic, I collected and stored them separately in their own bubbles... or something like that. I feel like there’s a Covid joke in here but I can’t quite get there. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947193431-GZ772RWEWEQHDUK54RBN/20210512_223453988_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - 90 grams each I made sure to only use the same amount each time. These are two identical 2-liter glass jars with 90 grams of flowers in each. Goal: dye to two 10 gram skeins in each - one premordanted with alum and with iron, for a total of four skeins (two per jar). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947375202-D3BRWB90QHD83M43W6V7/20210512_224055280_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Into the pot The two jars were then filled with tap water and the flowers were chopped with scissors. I like to chop them when they’re floating as the water pushing them to the surface makes the chopping easier. They placed into a large pot which was then filled with water and heated. The two jars were then simmered for an hour and left to cool (though not as cool as I should). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947540534-IHYT1YI2Q831HXQGI3ZQ/20210513_000923282_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - At the ready Two additional 2-liter jars were placed on the counter with two 1-gallon mesh paint bags placed around the rims. I was introduced to using these bags in a dyeing class with Alissa Allen (Mycopigments) and they’ve become a big part of my dyeing process ever since. Thanks Alissa! https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947668226-9XKUNCDE8RZMWUGYZBZ2/20210513_001145946_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Strain it Using the mesh bag as a strainer, I poured the dye stuff into each of the empty jars. The left over plant material can now safely go into the composter. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947708705-R0MCSCKJ0L750J1UGFUB/20210513_001216088_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Colour difference Here are the resulting dye vats. The Andreanus variety on the left is a darker shade though the red in the petals did not translate into visible reds in the dye vat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947757340-HN5C42QKTVEZKA6BHO1T/20210513_001259501_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - In you go my lovelies Into each jar I added the 2 x 10 grams of wool. That’s a ratio of 9:2 fresh flowers to wool (450% WOF). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947816670-NN2FBVUBMO5KPHDQVYLY/20210513_002639772_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Into the pot Both jars were placed together into a larger pot and heated to a simmer for an hour and allowed to cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620947946238-V7FLTTDYWY3JGPW158TJ/20210513_012108627_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Results (above): Left: Red-variety - yellow-green (alum), a dark brown (iron). Right: Yellow variety -yellow (alum), abrown (iron). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620948156533-PNMY8G3DUTEKZNP0WCR6/20210513_012301485_iOS.jpg Blog - Scotch Broom - do two varieties dye differently? - Results left to right (above): Skein 1: Red variety ( iron), dark brown. Skein 2: Red variety (alum), yellow-green. Skein 3: Yellow variety (iron), medium brown. Skein 4: Yellow variety (alum), medium yellow. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/xanthoria-parietina-no-heat monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620705419878-0C8KSQJ8N1OVQMDQSQEN/IMG_5593.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Foraging for lichens Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620786119331-DOHS0YA6CMUUBHA2JFL9/20210421_172623036_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Fermentation Vat Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620786091391-CNWTTKHY4J0MJ7QT4MU2/20210421_172651863_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Strained Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620784796302-166R35BKDXG78DQC1T01/20210420_173735313_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Leave it to rot Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620785165598-FZ6YXSL569TFEPXQPMBP/20210420_174725543_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Safe Place to Tan Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620785202134-52GC4MSHWW5WXSBTSD9G/20210420_180012166_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Within 20 minutes Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620785242111-U5Z7H3AFZJE3X6MUET9Z/20210420_185711598_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Baby blue Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620785277629-M59KUHV6EOTNUYDPQWOC/20210420_194953479_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Dried out of the sunlight Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620785318509-T9V53LJY4QGGCQ2OJWY9/20210420_194932419_iOS.jpg Blog - Xanthoria parietina lichen (No heat) - Results Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/tapinella-atrotomentosa-mushroom monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620681566596-1JHZDZ6RD3XJUE699FAW/20201020_185205394_iOS.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - A young T. atrotomentosa You can see the natural Tim Hortons rolled rim and furry stem. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620681647736-AAKB0ZZ0BULK2UE6LP4M/20201020_191328817_iOS.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Mature T. atrotomentosa Here the forks in the gills and that off-center stipes is visible. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620681918284-PA77PW6RT1JX2LXYSKL5/20210510_171617039_iOS.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom The T. atrotomentosa was foraged in September, sliced and dried in the dehumidifier. Afterwards, it was stored in a glass jar until today, approximately eight months later. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620681982814-GWRUB8M6Q3F9TN7URPLR/20210510_171910277_iOS.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Close up shot No hints from the mushrooms that it contains any colours other than brown and tans. The first bath is two skeins of wool which weigh 16 grams together. I wanted to go for a 2:1 dried mushroom:fiber ratio (plus a little) so I weighted out 40 grams of the mushroom, 250% Weight of fiber (WOF) percentage. The second round of dyeing is two more skeins of the same size (10 grams each), also with no mordant. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620682017106-2QI2EN8O9TK1A79S6N2E/20210510_172205803_iOS+-+Copy+%282%29.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom Adding tap water, before any heat is added, still looks very tan. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620682066757-WP4J9PPYN92YB4DXNE4G/20210510_173821674_iOS+-+Copy+%282%29.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Things are looking up Very quickly the vat took on a rosy colour. The mushroom was simmered for a full hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620682097904-VJIHHISHALBX21VP2E0P/20210510_183420013_iOS.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Fiber added The two skeins were soaked in water for an hour and then added in a 1-gallon paint mesh to protect the fiber from the mushroom pieces. Very quickly the fiber started soaking in colour, I took the first skein out after 10 minutes and the second one out at 20 minutes. The pot was still very dark and added a third skein for only 5 minutes. One more skein was also done for a full hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620682559896-QEI52JOJ4UFDWHKBAW8A/20210510_190310245_iOS+-+Copy+%282%29.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Results Top to Bottom: Skein 1: No mordant, in dye pot 5 mins Skein 2: No mordant, in dye pot 10 minutes Skein 3: No mordant, in dye pot 20 minutes https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620682195163-Z98A827VLZ3WVPGLCQ07/20210510_202057801_iOS+-+Copy+%282%29.jpg Blog - Tapinella atrotomentosa Mushroom - Results (once yarn is dried). Pictured from left to right - all with no mordant: Skein 1: 1 hour simmer (dark mauve, grey undertones) Skein 2: 5 minute simmer (light mauve) Skein 3: 10 minute simmer (bright medium mauve) Skein 4: 20 minute simmer (dark mauve, grey undertones) Conclusion - the 10 minute skein came out the brightest mauve. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/mohair-skeins-with-local-materials monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620366508468-LH53U13YMUJYVTYDDTUX/20210428_224134392_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Starting Materials I started with three hand-spun skeins all roughly 100 grams apiece - one was premordanted with alum (16% Weight of Fiber) and two with iron (6% WOF). The dyes themselves came from two plants: giant horsetail (Equisetum telmateia), dandelions (whole plant - not pictured) and just dandelion flowers (pictured). Two of the vats had an addition of approximately 1 cup of dried locally-harvested dyers polypore (Phaeolus schweinitzii) - see below. The nice part of a project like is blending materials like plants and mushrooms together because the goal is to end up with colourful skeins at the end. TLDR: Three 100 gram skeins: Premordant iron, giant horsetail with dyers polypore mushroom - olive green Premordant iron, dandelion (whole) - deep grey Premordant alum, dandelion (flowers) with dyers polypore mushroom and a tablespoon of vinegar - bright yellow https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620367505522-ZFL9USGMC3W4X902FKKW/20210429_030540240_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Giant Horsetail - 1 The giant horsetail was harvested from the back of my friend Shona’s backyard as it slopes away into a peaceful riparian area. Here my son is helping chop it up. I try to incorporate their help at every stage of the dyeing. I did not weigh the amount of horsetail but there’s about 8 liters of rough chopped worth in the pot (i.e., 2 x 1-gallon milk jugs worth). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620368219135-LZXP7I971JPO05U9RA40/20210429_032129973_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Giant Horsetail - 2 I decided to boost the green I got last time with about a cup of dried dyers polypore mushroom (Phaeolus schweinitzii). These are the brown chunks you can see in the photo. As P. schweinitzii usually gives a nice olive green when the fiber is premordanted with iron. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620368283871-D0WKMV0SDQQ90ZBBLSJH/20210429_141628647_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Giant Horsetail - 3 Here is the horsetail after about an hour at a simmer and left to cool. The greens in the pot have all faded to a browns and greys. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620574326118-032BBN0GQXCRNSCGSJGR/20210430_040052153_iOS%281%29.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Giant Horsetail - 4 (Results) Deep olive green https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620574395102-0L0EMUDCP9OTYJ3G7DOY/20210429_201130839_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelions (whole) - 1 Next came dyeing with the whole dandelion (minus the root). I collected two freezer bags worth from a backyard that was about to be mowed. The plants were rinsed off and the roots removed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620574607518-0C3Y8PSEW99I3XMY8KHQ/20210429_201855148_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelions (whole) - 2 These were then chopped up over the pot and heated at a simmer for an hour. For this pot, I did not add any of the mushroom. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620575750113-WDOOSTMOEXUO7M2FND5M/20210429_225001272_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelions (whole) - 3 After the simmering, the fiber was added to the vat in a 1-gallon paint mesh bag. This was then re-heated to a simmer for another hour and left to cool. While simmering, I’d move the fiber around and flip it over occasionally to try for an even colour uptake. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620576040570-LML7YB7SNP0VFDK3M4QZ/20210430_035649543_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelion (whole) - 4 Results Interestingly, the colour came out much of a grey than the last time I dyed dandelion (whole) with a premordant of iron. That colour was much more of a deep chocolate brown with grey tones. What this because I used mohair instead of wool? More testing is needed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620576386860-QJ44E57P9R2HQNRFYRA0/20210429_031302719_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelion (flowers) - 1 Here my daughter is chopping up the heads of the dandelion. The heads were harvested from Shona’s backyard as well as from another local side yard that was being mowed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620576524587-NFXP80ZA7G2VA2NT6WDH/20210429_031655553_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelion (flowers) - 2 The dandelion flowers are now chopped up and are ready to be simmered. Again about a cup of dried of locally-harvested dyers polypore (Phaeolus schweinitzii) was added to ensure a bright yellow. I also added a tablespoon of vinegar to the pot which helps bring out the golden tones of the dyers polypore. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620576821675-JGFWZGFXRABNJ7XGLFVH/20210429_032128165_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelion (flowers) - 3 The vat was simmered for about an hour and the flowers mostly kept their yellow colour and left to cool. I removed some of the material to make room for the fiber. The fiber (mordanted with alum) was then added in the usual 1-gallon paint bag (to protect the fiber) and simmered again for about an hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620577047519-NH8ONSL3HY63BUU9LSMR/20210430_035858889_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Dandelion (flowers) - 4 Results The results was a bright, cheerful yellow https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620577288960-6AOYV8RP9GR5JW6A6NAM/20210430_034710574_iOS.jpg Blog - Mohair Skeins with Local Materials - Results The colours came out ok and hopefully someone can make a fun project with them. Fun having a goal of dyeing with stuff wild growing in my neighbourhood. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/stinging-nettle monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190743251-PU1ZLNUG3VYTCVPORZDE/20210502_180151340_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - The Patch Luckily, there is a sizeable patch growing near my home so over I went. The plants were still quite fresh at less than a meter tall during this forage in early May. I selected some plants and only harvested the top 6” or so. Gathering in the end about 280 grams of fresh nettle. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190778747-923UZIWMWUM4WIEQGID4/20210502_180335407_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Ouchie The plants contain hollow stinging hairs which can cause a painful condition known as “'contact urticaria” which frankly sucks and makes you feel like not all your choices in life have been good ones. To harvest these, I brought along a pair of unapologetically feminine leather gloves, a pair of scissors and a collection bag. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190808347-XJ2NFK7A4AGIHJWG5XS4/20210502_182942863_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Into the pot About 12 liters of tap water were added. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190849097-3O8FO4HX1UZBFSVQVVEV/20210502_232155029_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Simmered (~80°C) The pieces were rough chopped in the water and the contents simmered for about an hour and left over night. It was interesting that the leaves kept their green colour unlike the horsetail or bitter dock I’ve also been working with (both of those turned brown after being cooked). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190881339-O4XV2KKFL0HASIZ597SM/20210503_145550735_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Left overnight In the morning, the pot had a oily film on the top. Not sure what that was about. I tried to scoop it out but it just kept breaking apart. I decided to leave it. I made up a mech paint bag with two 11 gram skeins of wool which had been left to soak in water for about 20 minutes. One mordanted with alum and the other iron (the iron one is the brown skein on the right in the bag). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620217924315-54AY52IFY9CSODJLDWVG/20210503_170155471_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Simmered again The fiber was simmered again for just over an hour and left to cool in the pot. I did my usual poking at the fiber with some flipping around to try and even out the colours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620190978503-ILTCYCVWI5BZ2Y0ZGQ2H/20210503_204111695_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Results with Alum The alum mordanted skein came out a yellowy-green. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620191068712-ED74VOQVG9E5LDKWQ6RP/20210503_204127530_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Results with Iron The iron mordanted skein came out a deep chocolate brown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1620191111965-2VMNORIQXF6X6QX7ZZLA/20210504_223857989_iOS.jpg Blog - Stinging Nettle - Harmless Compost Turning my exhausted dyestuff back into soil is always part of the process. It’s still odd to touch the nettle now in it’s harmless state. The pot smelled wonderful during this process and makes me curious to try it as a source of food. Maybe in a salad or soup. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/giant-horsetail monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618724003910-RBGTT3YODTX3RQKKDWXH/20210408_195727161_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618893971559-JMURKWFU8ZL457FXFTK4/20210408_200941767_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - Random assortment By using small skeins to experiment with, I can usually get away with harvesting only a very small portion. I have a goal of leaving enough growing where I harvest that it doesn’t look any different. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618894168043-V2X8TUBU8UJNTWNLWV7I/20210408_223140199_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - 377 grams In this case, I tared the weight of these three plastic cups and it came out at 377g. I went with my usual two 11g skeins (one premordanted with alum and the other with iron), for a total of 22g of fiber. My fresh plant:fiber ratio was a whopping 17.1. Probably much higher than I needed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1619056045446-TUDNK2O6K8D28BE06YYP/20210408_223454956_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - Snip snip The giant horsetail was rinsed, chopped into roughly 1” pieces and added to the dye pot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1619056255156-KJ0XFXI2FQMI8JRSW24K/20210408_225041019_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - 1 hour simmer The pieces were then simmered for one hour (~80°C) and stirred occasionally. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1619056389924-V288X96LE19W4OOKYKLF/20210408_231322368_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - Fiber added I used two 11 gram skeins of wool - one pre-mordanted with alum and the other with iron. Both of these were placed into a mesh paint bag which allowed the fiber to move around freely without the plant material adhering to the fiber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1619056558772-DHEP1APGF5JS54AZ2MBB/20210408_234030574_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - Heated for 1 hour After simmering for one hour (with the occasional stir and turn over of the fiber), the fiber was left to cool down before being removed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1619056677143-B88O054G6YBIG13DR8FU/20210420_200605432_iOS.jpg Blog - Giant Horsetail - Success The fiber pre-mordanted with alum came out a rich, warm yellow and the other skein (pre-mordanted with iron) is a medium olive green. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/pholiota-meh monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618891647906-1TPHCTO5KNI7FUO028QK/IMG_3347.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618891821077-N8JRXYKKI8TVXPXAT6FS/20210419_221822612_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella - Harvested and dried The Pholiota was harvested in several spots last fall. These were then chopped up and dried in a dehydrator for about 10 hours and then stored in glass jars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618892013963-JVEZPC1IWR1VCWM2T3O0/20210419_221721649_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella I used two skeins weighing 11 grams each. One premordanted with alum (16% Weight of Fiber) and the other with iron (6% WOF). I decided on a 2:1 mushroom to fiber ratio and measured out 44 grams of dried mushrooms (a bit more mushrooms than is pictured). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618892139500-FVG0DLNL1YNV2P07UIK4/20210419_222418256_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella - Into the pot The mushroom pieces were then added into a pot of warm tap water. I tend to chop up the pieces a little more mostly to give myself something to do as the pot is heating up. The dye pot was heated to a simmer for about an hour (and occasionally poked at as is tradition). The pot was then left to cool. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618892449823-G1F8LQHRVKKUPT0FGR9F/20210419_231646108_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella Once again, the two wool skeins were soaked in room temperature tape water for about an hour and then placed into a mesh paint bag which allows the fiber to move freely but keeps the fungi from adhering to the fiber. The mesh bag was then added to the dyepot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618892708896-N00DRRXV58M1U4YJER5A/20210419_231656330_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella - Simmered for 1 hour The dye pot started off with quite a bitter mushroom smell but it mellowed into that familiar earthy mushroomy smell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618892959491-A7QRV3HT04WC44TR7S7H/20210420_003352584_iOS.jpg Blog - Fun with Pholiota aurivella - If you want a pale yellow or deep tan, Pholiotas are your mushrooms Inner skein: alum premordant, Outer skein: iron premordant https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/lobster-mushroom monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618721440112-MS0CN00FZF2XYYZ9N00M/IMG_2998.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom Fresh and dirty. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618721553395-GZSNWSD7NJRCZDL01FTB/IMG_2988.JPG Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Forage on Gambier Island In mid-October, we took our little family on a sail over to Gambier Island and did a little foraging. The chanterelles and lobster mushrooms were out in full force. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618721759144-02EXWNFFTVL2N3XLYZ2N/IMG_2276.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Aside: Foraging tip As lobsters age and begin to decompose, the change in pH shifts the colour of the mushrooms from deep orange to pinks and purples. Though these would not be edible, they dye just as well (if not better). So when hunting for lobsters for dyeing, cast a wider net, though be prepared for unpleasant textiles and smells. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618721509568-96MWC3TQE2W5ESRW97DC/IMG_3294.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - A little trim I also augmented my foraging from the farmer markets and friends (thanks Vic!). Once we had several pounds worth, incredible artist and friend Rita Kompst and I proceeded to shave off the outer layer of deep orange Hypomyces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618721909467-GUWG3N6W82WZZD6J3QH8/20210322_211535243_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Mushroom witchery Once shaved, the skins were run through the dehydrator for about 10 hours and stored in jars. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722022169-ZM1IRW89VYWVMXL00DV4/20210322_212034663_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - 1:1 dyestuff to wool I went for a 1:1 ratio of skinned dried lobster to fiber. I weighted out 20 grams in two skeins and measured 21 grams out of the lobster (105% Weight of Fiber). These were then poured into a jar with several cups of tap water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722057600-YEW48UWJSKCRA8Q1GMAK/20210322_212538175_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Heat the dyestuff The jar was then placed into a pot of water on the stove and heated at a simmer for an hour. While being heated, two 10 gram wool skeins wool (premordanted with alum at 16% WOF) were soaked in room temperature tap water for 1 hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722097255-1FYJQCFQ6APO8NUUX9FI/20210322_223310427_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Into the sack Once heated, 10 skeins of wool premordanted with alum was added into a 1 gallon mesh paint bag (this method was developed by Alissa Allen in Washington state). The bag allows the fiber to move in the jar relatively freely but keeps the fiber separated from the dyestuff (which makes a huge difference to not getting gunk bound up in the fiber). The fiber was left to simmer for an hour, with occasional poking and flipping. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618800119930-JRU0UK43394UV7QVISA3/20210322_225447489_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Smells like mushroom soup I chose two skeins for this dye session because I wanted to see the colour shifting you can do with lobster mushroom. I poured half the dye vat into a second jar and separated one skein into a new mesh bag and added it in. This gave me two separate jars to alter the pH with. The plan was to shift one pH down (acidic) with vinegar and the other one to bring the pH up with washing soda. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722141763-3SWIFROEZL7Y7PG1Q656/20210323_004305377_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - pH 6 with Vinegar I added vinegar to one jar by the tablespoon (two in total) until the pH hit about 6. The vat colour was a bright orange. The wool was kept at this pH for about 10 minutes before being removed and washed. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722266178-M5SYF9LZURBJVG8DRDLV/20210323_011249604_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - pH 6 A bright orange was achieved with 2 tablespoons of vinegar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722297847-TR2AMXHTF6354USZRL8Y/20210323_004547782_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - pH 11 The strong base in the form of washing soda was added by the 1/2 tsp until the pH rose to 11. The vat turned a deep purple. The skein was only kept for about 5 minutes at this high pH as I didn’t want to damage the wool by keeping it in too long. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722519743-8KQUZ9XO7JU5Q4325SGS/20210323_011234187_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - pH 11 After only about 5 minutes at a pH of 11, the wool turned a deep medium purple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1618722471057-ZEO35KHQJTMKD3VDVTAC/20210323_005053213_iOS.jpg Blog - Hypomyces lactifluorum, aka Lobster Mushroom - Done Amazing the colour shifts when you play around with pH. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/red-corts-mushrooms-i monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617684856090-P8LWFLOTB8MG6IB0D9TR/arion_131432295_2087145838086133_2310711809690054470_n.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms There are at least three species of related mushrooms here in the Pacific Northwest that provide shades of true reds: Cortinarius sanguineus, C. smithii and C. semisanguineus. Today I dove in with C. smithii (photo by Arion Wanderer). Generally, this mushroom has red tops with a tan/orange stalk and is usually referrred to in dyeing circles as one of the “red Corts” or “red Democybes” (older taxonomy). TL;DR: Yarn premordanted with alum (16% WOF), dyed with dried red Corts at 100% WOF for 1 hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616217109931-NYFWKFTO5562YA7PXHMF/arion_126501348_2065246726942711_5654500064640365809_n.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - C. smithii Photo credit: Arion Wanderer https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617682384648-XPRMMGKHROY2PRKKLIQC/20210320_172933907_iOS%281%29.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - Just a little off the top For this dyeing sesson, I only used the red tops which had been separated from the (rich tan coloured) stalks, this was done to try and get as true a red as possible. There is also red dye in the stalk but I’ve also heard it can subtly shift the colour to more tan tones. Here pictured is my pile of dried tops which have an interesting metallic bronze sheen to them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617682619329-MUKL26RPYBNEOAWAK0A1/20210320_173205910_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - 10.4 grams My aim was to test out the colours I could get from just using the dried tops. I then made up a 10gram skein of white wool and premordanted it with 16% alum. The skein was left to soak for about 20 minutes in room temperature tapwater. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617682795929-ZN4DN6JOA70GWBFIE8BU/20210320_173757558_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - View from a jar The mushrooms were then roughly chopped up with scissors and placed into a 2L glass jar. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617682923308-9KZZ2E15HMHOFP6UO08G/20210320_174539877_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms About 1L of tapwater was added to the jar, which was then placed into a pot of warm water. Using this method, the jar was then heated on the stove to about 80°C for one hour. I stirred occasionally and mostly poked at the mushrooms with a chopstick. After this, it was time to add the pre-soaked wool yarn. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617683691496-JEZY0BXZ961R39EHL0WK/20210320_185259771_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - Rich red The dye vat proceeded to quickly turn a rich red once it started being heated. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617683980428-G0U8CV87U5CDYZHI9F4L/20210320_185441147_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - 5 minutes in I checked it briefly at the start of the dyeing process and this was already the colour of the yarn. It’s clearly a strong dye material. I left it to simmer for an hour (poking and rotating it occasionally), left it to cool down for an hour or so and then rinsed it in the sink. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617684119280-5PJJVQCHLJUGEGJVT6IF/20210320_204300488_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - Final Colour After an hour at a simmer, this was the final colour. A lovely rich, true red. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1617684396709-8WOCQRVZLI9GUBBT55BI/20210320_211241745_iOS.jpg Blog - Cortinarius smithii mushrooms - Exhaust Bath The yarn in the middle was the first exhaust bath - it came out a peachy orange. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/alkanet-alchemy monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616215825181-QQX9YIYCQ1Q5HHY4T3ZY/20210315_174915833_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy Alkanna tinctoria, aka dyer’s alkanet, is an herb in the Boraginaceae family native to the Mediterranean region including Central Asia, Northern Africa and Central Europe. The dark red roots of the plants are dried, then ground but interestingly are not water soluble (thereby requiring a soak in strong alcohol to extract the dye potential). The dye pigment is specifically anchusaic acid, also known as alkannin. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128638064-GP92D4WZ8I1U7GGWWC5G/20210315_220323256_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Start with the booze The dye pigment is only soluble when first exposed to alcohol. I’ve been reading some folks use everclear but I went with Vodka because that’s what we had on hand. I’ve also been reading you need 80-100% WOF (weight of fiber) to get deep colours. I decided to try for 150 % WOF to be on the safe side. The 6 skeins together were 66 grams. So I weighted out 99 grams of ground alkanet into a jar and poured in 1 litre of vodka. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128663972-G83XL2GCVFZ5SUV1ADI0/20210317_180207849_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - But for how long? It wasn’t clear from reading accounts just how long to soak the alkanet in the alcohol for. Even Maiwa instructions just says “several days” - but the guidance was to keep soaking until the colour was dark. Oddly the colour went dark right away and didn’t seem to change at all. I ended up soaking it for two days (~48 hours). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128806252-C3CVNBFSP4OVA64C76GT/20210317_192403059_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Three bags of wool I wanted to try two different premordants at three different pHs. I decided to put together three “packages” of two skeins each within a 1-gallon mesh paint bag from the paint store. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128853824-P1IV9M883OT0L4FWOVTA/20210317_193505031_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Popped the lid After two days, the jar was a deep maroon colour and smelled like an orchard of vodka trees (if vodka trees were a thing, which they should be). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128882838-BOCC8SLLDMG45HKSCYFU/20210317_193514614_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Long pour Tap water was added to a pot and the jar was poured in. There was still no sign of purple yet. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616128973739-Y3CBWW0R5SZCL0OVRUKS/20210317_193703360_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy The vat was simmered at just under 60°C for an hour and then split off one package of two skeins into a smaller pot with some of the liquid (enough to cover the skeins and still have it move easily). Into this side pot I added vinegar until the pH read about 4.5. I kept the skeins there for another 10 minutes within the mesh bag, exposed them to air for a couple of minutes and then rinsed it off. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616129009676-HZS0JN5SJMX1O2PQMYOC/20210317_200216556_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Cold-blooded dye Alkanet is sensitive to temperature and starts to deteriorate at temperatures about 60°C. I upped my usual lazy approach to temperature (I.e., basically stopping it from outright boiling) and instead used my candy thermometer to keep the heat at about 55°C. After about 50 minutes, I moved one of the packages to a second smaller pot and added vinegar until the pH read 4.5. I was aiming for pH 6, but overshot the mark. I keep the two skeins in the pot for another 10 minutes before exposing it to the air for another couple of minutes and rinsed it off. At first it was black but rinsing it exposed a bright shade of purple. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616130051739-IF466I981LHMTUM8NOB2/20210317_205211474_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - 2nd skeins out at pH 9 The other two skeins stayed in the main pot and I added washing soda by the 1/4 tsp until it reached pH 10. I waited 10 minutes and then I removed the second package, waiting two minutes and rinsed the two skeins. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616130111635-A2RDRRZAR8H3XRRHKXGM/20210317_205618588_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - 3rd skeins out at pH 10 I kept adding washing soda until I hit pH of 10.5 and removed the last package. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616129413661-9GV7XPI73J2NVSBAA5X9/20210317_210837428_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Results From left to right (alum premordant 16% WOF, iron premordant 6% WOF): Alum, pH 4.5 Alum, pH 9 Alum, pH 10.5 Iron, pH 4.5 Iron, pH 9 Iron, pH 10.5 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616129552572-249SWPUDV9PYBOMDRWSG/20210317_211244493_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy The purples came out nicely but the greys from the iron premordant are fairly bland. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1616216242390-YZP46HYHSBDPHD1XUR3U/20210319_155727490_iOS.jpg Blog - Alkanet Alchemy - Exhaust bath After about 5-6 hours, I tried to see what potential there was in the dye bath using two skeins premordanted with alum. They came out steely/lavender grey (two skeins on the far left). I’m betting the enough alcohol had burned off during the process that the anchusaic acid was no longer soluble. I could test this out but it would mean using up even more vodka… for now. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/dull-oregon-grape-ii monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696149471-30EW1D05W5JNEU1CFRIC/20210313_204442125_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II Spurred on by my first attempt, I wanted to move from test-sized skeins to a lager sized skein for a friend’s weaving project. Here you can see the three earlier skeins - yellow in the foreground (no mordant), slightly greener on the left (alum) and more tan (iron). She was wanting the yellow so I skeined up some white wool and did not use a mordant. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696370382-HJWCRPD74KXAXYKFBTMU/20210313_214841291_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - Shavings After sawing off the roots, I spent about an hour shaving them and came up with about four cups of shavings. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696397397-2VMYDT9JD75EE2SDGJ7G/20210313_215009255_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - Shavings by weight All told, I had 145.9 grams of shavings. The bright yellow is the inner bark of the roots. I haven’t yet tried shaving the branches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696439742-UIT4M3HZZ5XDDYPT0F7Q/20210313_221606263_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - Simmering away I simmered the plant material for about an hour and I watched the temperature closely to ensure it didn’t boil at all. I was concerned maybe I didn’t get a clear yellow last time because the temperature might have been high. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615779858345-XUTC4I7WSYCIUMTXUVBJ/20210313_220905698_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - One skein (43 grams)/340% WOF The wool was unmordanted based on how the test skeins came out (the non-mordanted skein came out the most yellowy). I then placed the fiber into a mesh paint bag and simmered for about two hours then left to cool for five or six hours. The smell was interesting - noticeably waxy smell. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696699451-8XOBJLPI9VLAWUFN1ZAS/20210314_023205279_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - Final product The skein came out a pale-ish greenish-yellow. I wouldn’t call it a bright yellow which is what I thought I would get. I may overdye it to try and get some different colours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615696634064-RK1TOSZSPPH32PBOMOK4/20210314_023359234_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape II - Overall I enjoyed using plant material that would have otherwise have been chipped and composted. I may try one one more dye pot and see what happens if I leave it for a longer time period (a week maybe?). Could I get a brighter yellow? https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/dull-oregon-grape monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615694972214-QNDSLT8CRJ6T7PQ22SHC/20210311_230208259_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Three root balls So this is what arrived on my porch - the root ball of three plants including the roots and about a foot or two of branches. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695782791-TK96KEOESDMCY8319K93/20210313_203035675_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - You saw it here With the help of my friend here, we sawed away at the roots and several of the branches to try those out as well. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615776710000-TL0MNTDP9GQ5A9JWIR3H/20210313_203420224_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Branch vs. root On the left you can see the cross section of a branch and the right is the root. The roots definitely appear to have more yellow dye1 in them. While the inner back of the roots has the deepest yellow colour, there is clear yellow all the way through the roots. The branches seem to have less, though the inner bark is almost as dark as the same layer in the roots. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695437130-K54WHV9SKNMR23R2TD9L/20210311_231853367_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Root pile Once I had a small pile of fresh roots, I gave them a rinse to get the dirt off and then weighed them. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695265046-JDM8Q9I25RERFCVN1EQE/20210311_231956473_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Peeler After trying this step with a knife (much work and frustration), I took a page from Susan Pavel and Kelly Sullivan’s book and tried out a simple kitchen peeler. It worked so much better - it’s a far easier and fast approach to removing those layers of really concentrated colour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695313264-EKA9QBD7680B4XHNT9NN/20210311_233955150_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Post shaving weigh The easiest way to weigh the amount of shavings I made was to weigh the shaved roots and then I’d know the shavings would be the difference between this and the starting weigh (209.1g-143.7g = 65.4g). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695511688-B7YCXQN0XHC8IM3KEXVN/20210311_235325063_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Shavings! Here is what 65.4 grams of shavings looks like. It had a real luminous yellow quality to it. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615777468411-RU7H9GBR78Q57DW1RO9Z/20210312_010128207_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - 3 test skeins The three skeins added up to 14 grams of wool (~250% WOF (weight of fiber)): One skein had no mordant One skein mordanted with alum One skein mordanted with iron The skeins were then pre-soaked in water and placed in a 1-gallon mesh paint bag available at most paint stores. This step keeps the fiber and dyeing material separate without having to worry about decanting or filtering the dye vat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695550101-IWW52SSW2922745YK6ZR/20210312_010144161_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Get in the pot The skeins in the mesh paint bag was then placed in the dye vat and I piled some shavings on top to help bury the fiber below the water level to try and expose all the fiber to the dye. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615695633602-L5SS4LB91RSHN2ZKAILG/20210312_201830059_iOS.jpg Blog - Dull Oregon Grape I - Shade of greenish yellow The colours came out more a greenish yellow then the bright yellow I was expecting. The skein with no mordant came out the most yellow (the outer ring in this photo). The one mordanted with alum came out with slightly more greenish (middle ring) and finally the one mordanted with iron came out the most darkish tan/green/yellow. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/insert-acorn-y-pun monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615351392344-S0AKVTG8YLINT19BS71K/20201014_232331930_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Feel free to turn this image into a puzzle for someone you hate. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615351827515-889ISBWNX2HGYHROZN1P/20210308_211913322_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Step 1: Weigh everything I decided to start with a test run. I used about 4 level cups of dried acorns which came out to 511 grams. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615351936643-OKLYI26D4WZWZIBIDX66/20210309_223200808_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Step 2: Make a rough plan with wool and mordants I wanted to try a couple of different experiments in the pot and went with four skeins of wool: Skein with no mordant (acorns are high in tannins and thus should not require a mordant). Skein mordanted with alum (to see if that does make a difference). Skein with no mordant, I’ll be dipping into iron after the dye to see what happens. Skein pre-mordanted with iron (6% WOF). This skein is visible on the bottom of the shot as starting out a tan colour. All together, the four skeins weigh 38 grams (1300% WOF). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615352451028-4ZRTMAG9UU5FO7CD0RJO/20210310_010201791_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Sack time As usual, I first scooped out roughly half the acorns to make room in the dye vat. Then I placed all the pre-soaked fiber into a mesh paint bag (available at most paint stores, this was a 1-gallon size). Once the bag was in, I covered it in some of the remaining acorns to help weigh it down. I then proceeded to let it simmer for about one hour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615352489178-PUNLM6WRC57S9BXPMJSO/20210310_020909147_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Iron pre-mordanted wool The wool pre-mordanted with iron turned a dark chocolate brown within about 15 minutes into simmering. It’s a lovely dark shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615352532268-UIYVDHR4H0WECQXLCMCY/20210310_034004747_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - The rest The other three skeins (both no mordant and alum pre-mordanted wool) came out a pale tan colour. The usual colour of a “dud” dyeing material. It wasn’t that useful of a colour to me for upcoming projects so I switched gears and decided to try to do post-dye dips into an iron sulphate solution (roughly 15% WOF) at three different time lengths: 1 minute, 10 minute and 45 minutes. See results below. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615352628002-MVQHG9MMMDKX6S2X316J/20210310_042514783_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun - Post-iron dips gave shades of grey From left to right: First three skeins were simmered in the pot for an hour and left to cool for about two hours. Then they were dipped into a bath with iron sulphate (15% WOF): Skein 1: post-dye dip in iron for 45 minutes Skein 2: post-dye dip in iron for 5 minutes Skein 3: post-dye dip in iron for 1 minute Skein 4: pre-mordanted with iron, simmered in dye pot for 1 hour, no post-dye dip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615352656635-Q3BQ9C5CJU76QLTF7JME/20210310_042548325_iOS.jpg Blog - Acorn-y pun Ultimately I was really happy with the shades, all achievable by introducing the wool to iron at different stages and different lengths of time. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/old-man-usnea monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615048429959-RFGBIXZFMUGTW05TMAE3/20210305_003124146_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Somewhere between Squamish and Whistler We stopped to stretch our legs and I set about collecting the small amounts of Usnea that had fallen onto the path. I generally don’t collect from trees or lichen that’s fallen onto the forest floor as it’s decomposition adds back valuable nitrogen to the growing plants. Once house, I laid it out to dry and store until I was ready to move ahead. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615048381981-BDNXUGOBGM6BI6K7LDXH/20210304_202000057_iOS%25281%2529.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 1: Weighing All told, I had about 33 grams of lichens including the random plant matter and moss. I had been reading that an acidic bath helps bring out the orange tones so I chose two 8 gram wool skeins (16 grams in total). Having a 2:1 lichen to wool ratio (200% WOF) should allow me to get a richer colour and having the wool in two separate skeins means I can dye them both with regular tapwater, remove one and play around the with the pH to see if that shifts the colour at all. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615048897241-DA71UCF9O4M1459CZL2R/20210304_204502723_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 2: Prep the dye pot and add the fiber I soaked the lichen for about an hour at a low simmer, chopping it up with a pair of scissors. At the same time, I pre-soaked the wool in warm water before adding it to the mesh paint bag (available at most paint stores). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615049051051-ZI9Y5XQ5HORMP9UBEP2P/20210304_211028390_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 3: Bury the bag, check the pH The benefit of the bag is you can have the fiber and the botanical matter in the pot at the same time but the fiber remains separated from it. I buried the bag under the lichen pieces but made sure it could move freely and I turned it over every two hours or so. I also checked the pH - 6.5 (slightly acidic), which is typical for water filtered passed so many conifers. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615049534438-5NUX3WURJ8ZZUN2E7GMD/20210304_224328453_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 4: Check the Colour One unusual thing I’ve heard about dyeing with Usnea, is that the dye vat stays relatively clear while the yarn picks up the colour. I can confirm this is exactly what happened. The lichen only got paler- from a grey-green to all grey, the liquid stayed basically clear while the yarn started to darken. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615049562975-7K5E7L13GRV62K77YZNX/20210305_154834970_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 5: Yarn starts to darken Throughout the day, I continued to simmer the pot for about two hours and then let it cool, as time went on, the colour deepened into a rich rufus brown. I kept it in for about 12 hours until I was happy with the shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615052239623-9Z6IEPQ452L1CZV1P2V0/20210305_185853527_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Step 6: Cackle Manically Because all the material used to give the colour can go straight into the composter. Woohoo. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615049698997-9PYXSY48DFT58J2MLBUG/20210305_155647044_iOS.jpg Blog - Old Man Usnea - Success! I hear various species give different shades of brown and oranges. I want to try out more! It was magical to see the liquid in the pot stay clear though the yarn slowly changed colour. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/polyozellus-multipass-err-multiplex monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267742449-YDNYL1ZRYIDRSAAP7M2D/20210309_051604301_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex Photo Credit: Franck Tuot (Courtesy of Forest for Dinner) https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615076587494-J6KAVN1P918NRWJZAAAU/IMG_6505.jpeg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 1: Weigh everything I started with 16 grams of dried mushroom. I wanted to try out wools premordanted with iron and alum. I had only dyed with this mushroom before in a workshop with Alissa Allen (mycopigment.com). This gave me a great starting off point to explore more. I moved forward with two 8 gram skeins - mordanted with the iron and alum respectively. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615095943043-DYEYFLRN100LC6OCLCXD/20210305_190544993_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 2: Chop Chop I chopped up the mushroom with a pair of scissors. The vat quickly went an inky black. I then simmered the pot for about an hour before adding the fiber. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615097413234-JSR7EWCYOFUIGYV90GKZ/20210305_201625332_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 3: pH monitoring Like many of the dye mushrooms in the Thelephoraceae family, the colours benefit from a boost in pH. I used washing soda (Sodium carbonate decahydrate) to raise it at 1/4 tsp intervals. I used pH paper to monitor the pH throughout the dyeing process outlined below. The vat tends to go more acidic after each addition to the pot as well as just over time, so I made sure to check it, especially whenever yarn was added in or just before coming out. The pH started at 6.5, using the washing soda I kept it at a pH of 9 throughout the dyeing process. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615096007005-RV0XF15GVYBXYSG7OIKM/20210305_201527080_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 4: Into the sack As mentioned before, I rely on inexpensive mesh paint bags from the local paint store to both a) keep my fiber separated from the botanical material and b) keep the fiber moving freely. I then pile some dye matter on top of the bag to weigh down the fiber. I added the two skeins after giving them a good soak in room temperature water. They were then simmered on and off for about four hours. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615096066951-H3VPNYM64ET9ERHEOWLT/20210305_220446364_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 5: Take a look After the four hours, I took out the wool, gave it a rinse and had a look. It was still a fairly pale grey even at 1:1 ratio fiber to dried mushroom weight (100% WOF). I decided to add another 16 grams of dried mushroom and put the skeins back in. the final math was 2:1 ratio fiber to dried mushroom weight (200% WOF). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615096119267-2LHBT9VLUECSKN8RJ4YQ/20210306_180152291_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Step 6: Better greys I simmered for another four hours and this time the colours came out significantly darker (see the two skeins on the far right below). I wanted to see how much colour was still left in the vat (hint: a decent amount), so I did two more rounds of dyeing at about one hour each of simmering. As you can see below, the colour did seem to max out at about one hour so probably no need to simmer it for hours as I did. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615096471150-UGP4K24YJT0ZPXP62V0F/20210307_030307098_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Final greys I ended up doing three rounds of dyeing and the colours kept coming. From left to right: 2nd exhaust bath: alum then iron pre-mordanted wool respectively. 1st exhaust bath: alum then iron pre-mordanted wool respectively. Main bath: alum then iron pre-mordanted wool respectively. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615096525429-5X2V71HO4I8F2XRDPCOV/20210307_030533541_iOS.jpg Blog - Polyozellus multiplex - Olive greens I also wanted to try overdyeing the polyozellus after dyeing some skeins yellow with onion. All four skeins pre-mordanted with alum. From left to right: 1. Onion dyed (30 mins) 2. Onion dyed (90 mins) 3. Onion dyed (30 mins), overdyed with polyozellus (15 mins) 4. Onion dyed (30 mins), overdyed with polyozellus (40 mins) https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/umbilicaria-angulata monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267243740-KYBV2O4I1F9K5DFBDN0N/DSCF7480.jpg Blog - Umbilicaria angulata Recreating a Viking Age colour using rock lichen https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615265497408-HFPYY1AXIE9QX9W7ENYJ/Close+up+of+Cuff.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata The silk portion of the warp and weft of the tablet woven portion was originally purple using an orchil[1] source. If dyed in the Scandinavian region, the lichens would have from either the Ochrolechia or Umbilicaria genera; or alternatively, been dyed in the Mediterranean, the lichens were likely from the Lecanora or Rocella genera (Walton 1991, pg 139). The Ochrolechia or Umbilicaria genera lichens are found in coastal temperate regions in the northern hemisphere and are available here in coastal areas. Dyeing with lichens to achieve purple has been confirmed for several textile finds from the Viking Age (Walton 1989). [1] Orchil: “Refers both to any species of lichen that will produce a violet-red to purple dye through steeping in ammonia, and to the various dye preparations made from them” (Cardon 2007, pg. 489). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615265753650-DFU9VL5DM92LBACI48L5/DSCF1752.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 1: Locate some Umbilicaria I found some on a coastal granite rock outcrop on an undisclosed Gulf Island. I wanted to harvest only a small amount and was able to gather much from around the base of the rock. I did harvest a small amount (maybe 5% of the extent of the lichen patch). In total, I ended up with about 53 grams of fresh lichen. Since then, I’ve learned more about sensitivities around rock lichens and I haven’t harvested more. As always, I recommend respectful harvesting practices. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615265834327-VIJUUZT0NX4DX5TYIK1T/DSCF1756.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 2: Try and get a proper identification In this case, I took several photos and sent them to a lichenologist at the UBC Herbarium who was able to identify this species as Umbilicaria angulata. Now to start fermenting… https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615266494543-CJ1QTPQXMHTOKV6EZ8IF/DSCF1802.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 3: Review your resources I read over as much on lichen fermentation process as I could. I also dried the lichen and chopped it up into small pieces. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615266540633-NK7SK6AK5AO6QZTZPXFP/DSCF1805.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step four: The vats At the same time as collecting the Umbilicaria, I also collected a small amount of another black rock lichen. I set up separate fermentation vats with the two different lichens, but the process was the same. I added equal parts water to ammonia and lichen to two closed glass vessels. I then agitated them for four months. First agitating them several times a day, to daily and finally weekly. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615266577671-0RHS53IIY6A5E5QQ1AOS/DSCF1879.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 5: Fermenty bubbles The two vats began to foam and one (the one with Umbilicaria angulata) began to turn first red and then purple. In this process, the dye pigment is gyrophoric acid which is a substantive dye (meaning it doesn’t require a mordant). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615268587554-P2H5Z3G1R487SNTF9LUO/IMG_1859.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 6: Decanting Once ready, I recanted the liquid through a sieve with the help of my friend Kate. I added enough water to cover the fiber and I added the silk in. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615266768209-6SKMSBZNEK2OMG9G8UGU/IMG_1864.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Step 6: After four months, I emptied the vat into a large dye pot and added two skeins of scoured silk. I heated the silk for two days, cooled it in overnight and then left it to hang another day before washing it in water and leaving it to dry. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267140108-AERSAW0FY9HWKZDKU1LU/DSCF7480.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Done! The top skein is from the first dye. The exhaust bath dye is in the middle and the bottom shows the original silk colour. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267300781-QG7D5MDUQZ9Q7MZ5E3DU/DSCF7468.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Tablet Weaving Sometimes people ask what I do with all the yarn I dye. Here I wanted to weave it using inlayed brocaded fine metals in order to try and recreate the original weaving as much as possible (this weaving also included undyed linen warp threads but I didn’t cover that in this post). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267429897-VY0G15NC34WTDHKN5EEA/DSCF7496.JPG Blog - Umbilicaria angulata - Off the cuff This is a picture of one of the recreated cuffs with the purple-dyed silk visible in the weaving. The fabric for the cuff was dyed with madder and woven on a warp-weighted loom. Did I mention I’m a giant nerd? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615267476765-S2T68DOVTWYFO6JT85CT/20210305_000457669_iOS.jpg Blog - Umbilicaria angulata Follow up - after the silk, I dyed a pair of Viking Age leg wraps which started out as white wool. They came out a truly luminous purple. Not especially resistance to sunshine, but eye-searingly purple none the less. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/starter-on-natural-dyeing-and-this-blog monthly 0.5 2021-06-09 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615610788569-0CIAM2N7J83Z1KGM5S87/cochineal3.jpg Blog - New to natural dyeing? Start here. - Mordanting Mordants do several things during the dyeing process and are usually introduced into the dye solution prior to dyeing. These chemicals fall into three categories; metal oxides, tannins and oxyfatty acids. They work through opening the fiber and allow the dye to bite by acting as a bridge to bond a portion of the pigment molecules to the fiber protein (animal fibers) or cellulose (plant fibers) structure. They are key to determining the shade, tone, intensity and even the resulting colour of the finished product while helping to make the colour light- and water-fast. Mordanting is a very important step in the dye process. In Viking Age Scandinavia, the most likely mordant was a clubmoss called Diphasiastrum complanatum which has high levels of aluminium and was readily available. Clubmosses for use as mordants have also been recovered from Anglo-Scandinavian York and the Greenland finds, these clubmosses were likely imported from Scandinavia. Various metals are used to gain different colours from dye materials. For example, iron will darken your shade (often considerably), aluminum will usually bring out the same colour as your dye liquid/dye vat and copper will shift it into the blues and greens. I pick up all my mordants at Maiwa West in Vancouver, BC (maiwa.com). Note - not all dye material require a mordant, it depends on the materials you’re using. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615610325522-VRSYCI6VDRLMZJAKPDP4/madder+4.JPG Blog - New to natural dyeing? Start here. - Dyeing Once mordanted (or not), the dye process is usually: chopping up the plant, mushroom or lichen, simmering it in a pot, adding the fiber, and heating it for some time. I sometimes use different methods such as fermenting or a chemical reduction vat for indigo. Within each entry, I’ve listed the weights, volumes, times and processes to get the colours shown. I don’t always track my temperatures, but I consider simmering to be about ~70-80°C (158-176F). Heat is needed to unlock great colour and some materials require higher temperatures to give good colours (e.g., madder), while other colours are destroyed if the temperature goes above 65°C (e.g., alkanet). Boiling usually destroys your colour so please monitor your pot carefully. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1615610892141-HW3J7P8H11MGQX7DN4TX/Debra+Project+1.jpg Blog - New to natural dyeing? Start here. - See below for general tips: https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/frog-blanket-aka-lungwort monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614882462453-S2CS6KDZF41NQJ6F5X5J/20210226_175139389_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort I collected the small amount pictured here off of a local gravel path following a wind storm. I created a small wool skein (30 grams) for this dyeing episode in order to try for a deep colour without having to collect more lichen. Finding it on the path carried a sense of it being a gift from the forest to try out some dyeing. There is so much to celebrate and appreciate about the forests and its First People. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614883111529-2OCEQOAG7WW9GNOI26X3/20210226_234142586_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Step 1: Clean and Chop After getting the lichen home, I weighed it (62 grams fresh), before rinsing off the dirt and sand from the path and proceeded to chop it up in the pot. Usually 2:1 weight ratio of fresh mushroom or lichen to wool gives good colour so I made a skein of 30g of white wool yarn and soaked it in room temperature tap water. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614883544416-JQKUBHMDJVPX6PSGYK2B/20210227_003659824_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Step 2: Into the Sack As usual, I added the pre-wetted fiber into a 5 Gallon painters mesh bag (these are available at most paint shops and are inexpensive). This is hte easiest way I’ve found to separate the fiber from the botanical material in the dye vat. Laziness wins! I proceeded to bury the bag under the lichen pieces and began to heat the vat. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614573384885-VSGPDH6GTXKL3CBRIXHL/20210227_014525643_iOS+-+Copy.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Step 3: Keep checking According to lichen and mushroom dye expert Alissa Allen (mycopigment.com), lichens respond to repeated heat applications by stacking their colour (i.e., the colour deepening after each heating). Accordingly, I set about alternating simmering (2-3 hours) with cooling periods over three days. I never let it boil, but other than occasionally turning the wool over and giving it a poke with a chop stick, I pretty much left it alone. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614573456278-8JXV4QQYQDTQTMXIUCX3/20210227_171152426_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Step 4: Monitor the colour I wasn’t in a rush, so after the coolings, I took some time to untie the bag and have a look at the colour. Over time, it changed from a tan to a more luminous orange/brown. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614573874137-H0XXDC2YHCLFUS7XSF8K/20210228_172136260_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Step 5: Once You’re Happy with the Colour… After about three days, I really liked the shade of rufus brown and I pulled out the skein and gave it a rinse. Another piece of the frog blanket had come down from the tree so I collected it for this photograph and then put it back into the forest to dissolve into nitrogen and other component parts for plants. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614573555621-VMOWW1HSRMV1PIURBT0Z/20210228_220243355_iOS.jpg Blog - Frog Blanket aka Lungwort - Rufus Brown Thank you frog blanket for being so beautiful and giving us these amazing luminous shades of orange and brown. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/hb10zomkiaxiv0mf3r72txy6hedlt7 monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614571202836-BA8H6W3DB5JEXCFA0JN7/20210228_180918537_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - General: Collecting Shallot Skins My collection method is fairly straightforward - I collect all the lose skins in the onion and/or shallot display into a produce bag and then add one or two whole shallots into bag. A bag of skins with one shallot here costs about $0.26. I more or less do this for every grocery trip. Once I dry the skins for a week on my kitchen counter and then transfer it into larger ziplock bags and go into storage. Once I have about 3 - 4 bags I’m ready to dye. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614571520254-H9QUX78EVT70ZEA5PRGZ/20210226_033656133_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 1: Weigh the bags Once I had four bags relatively full of dried skins, I moved ahead with dyeing. First I weighed each bag - they varied between 30-55 grams. I wanted to set up two separate pots - a pot with one skein mordanted with iron (to get a dark brown) and a larger pot for two skeins mordanted with alum (to try for a yellow and a rufus golden brown). When dyeing chunky wool like this, I like to keep wool mordanted with different metals separate during dyeing. This is because excess iron is tough to completely wash out of the wool prior to dyeing and that excess iron can darken portions of the alum-mordanted wool. By keeping them separate, it takes up more space on the stove but I don’t have to worry about the metals contaminating the colours. In this case, I chose one 55 gram bag for the smaller pot (as the skein is 110 grams, the dried shallot skin to fiber ratio was 2:1 (50% WOF for the iron-mordanted wool). The other pot got about 130 grams of dried skins to 220 grams of alum-mordanted wool (59% WOF). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614572283888-0I62RC9GE4H1HUIBVRJP/20210226_034731341_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 2: Chopping it Finely Here is my helper trying to chop up the skins using a soup purée thingie. It lasted about 10 minutes before overheating and hasn’t worked since. Undeterred, we went back to basics and used scissors. It took awhile but music helped. We listened to Peace Like a River at request from my four-year old about 400 times. It did not give me peace like a river. You can see both pots in the photo - the smaller one for the one skein mordanted with iron and the larger pot for the two skeins After the chopping, I simmered both pots for about two hours and left them over night to cool. Personally, I think a onion/shallot skin dye vat is ready once all the skins have sunk to the bottom and we’re good to go. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614877935637-IX5MN4HPPNLSQ9QHJ28N/20210226_151454597_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 3: Make Way, Make Way In the morning once everything was cool, I lifted out the onion skins to make room for the yarn. I use a weird frying/strainer thing I found at a garage sale. And by garage sale, I mean in a box in a lane someone left out after a move. Anyway, I wasn’t too worried about scooping out all the plant matter (see next step), the goal was to free up enough space for the wool to freely move in the pot. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614572346030-SL47GPT2YE3FXIF97S6I/20210226_152433161_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 4: Get in the sack I’ve been evolving this step for a while now. I soak my skeins and then add them into 5 gallon mesh painting bags and tie the tops. You can pick up these bags cheaply at most paint stores. They’re designed to filter paint but they do an excellent job of keeping the fiber and biological matter separate. I can’t recommend this step enough. I’ve done away with filtering and decanting dye vats through cheese clothes and strainers. They also come in 1 gallon sizes for dyeing on a more micro scale (handy sometimes for jar dyeing). You still need to make sure the yarn can freely move inside so you might need a few bags at a time depending on the scale of your project. I came across the use of painting bags in a mushroom dye class by Alissa Allen. You can find out more about her and her excellent dye classes at: mycopigments.com. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614878431842-1MWKNJG3UGBV2PTVP24T/20210226_210701476_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 5: Simmer Ok so I forgot to take a shot of the skeins in the pot but I proceeded to simmer then (70’C - 80’C) for about 4 hours, left the two pots to cool overnight. In the morning, I pulled out the dark brown from the smaller pot and both skeins from the big pot. As you can see from this shot, I ended up with two yellow skeins but wanted to see if I could get a darker shade. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614572711589-GJ4WS7B5YTFTG7XD43S0/20210228_185750683_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - Step 6: Kept the Dye Train Going I felt like the shallot skins had more colour to give, so I put back in one of the yellow skeins, simmered for another four hours, left it another night and simmered again for about two hours (skein second from the left). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614878627010-YZ4C8NG81773UTIZEWJZ/20210228_190637008_iOS.jpg Blog - Onion and Shallot Skins - For my next weaving project, I now have three new colours: Starting grey: undyed Yellow: alum mordant, shallot skins 4 hour simmer Rufus Golden Brown: alum mordant, shallow skins 2x4 hour + 1x2 hour simmer over three days Dark Brown: iron mordant, 4 hour simmer https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/how-to-skein-up-a-cone-for-dyeing monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614552534406-YZ6CW97XM5LPQT2PPD71/20210225_200358922_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614489181088-NOKF8DEB7PEIP93DK928/20210225_193540488_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Grey Cone of 1-lb Doom I was walking passed a yarn shop and failed my savings throw. Currently we’re still in a pandemic so while there were not exactly many customers in the shop, the last customer before me had just returned this one grey cone and I thought… I can do something with this. It comes from the Custom Woolen Mills Ltd in Alberta and is in their Prairie Sea Fusion line, developed in partnership with Salish Fusion Woolworks. It’s a bulky weight, designed with the Coast Salish knitting community in mind. Goal: Create four roughly equal skeins to dye with. Links to learn more about the wool used for this project: Prairie Sea Fusion 100% Wool Yarn - Sheep Shade Cones (customwoolenmills.com) Coming Soon | Salish Fusion Woolworks https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490346892-4ZGT21F2Y06PHMD9RUNQ/20210225_193641946_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Step 1: Weigh the Cone The cone came out to roughly 470 grams. I figured the cardboard cone itself weighs about 30 grams. So the wool was likely about 440 grams. Each skein therefore needs to be about 110 grams (440 / 4 = 110 grams). https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490379348-O9F4W3ESWNFPVONQ1AHP/20210225_194341422_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Step 2: Taylor your Swift I set up my swift, put the cone on the scale and wound on until the scale got down to about 330 grams. If you don’t have a swift, you can use the back of a chair, turn a chair upside down and use the legs, I’ve also used a cupboard door, etc. Anything sturdy you can wind the yarn around that won’t crumple and you can pull the skein off afterwards. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490458587-FSYQW6W6DBUMT7U04CKS/20210225_194657815_iOS+-+Copy.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Step 3: Tie off each skein for dyeing Each skein was then tied loosely in a figure eight at each quarter (i.e., at 3,6,9 and 12 o’clock). This reduces tangling and makes the whole process more straight forward. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490512508-TLGI4FHJADQI95ZU21L2/20210225_194951309_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Step 4: Repeat proceed for each skein I followed the same process for the next three skeins. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490556249-IRMN2YBMTW6KP3VSMM6S/20210225_195258185_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone - Step 5: Last skein Finally with the last skein is wound off the cone. Then the kids proceed to use the cone as a spyglass and fight over it tooth and nail until it disappears into the recycling box. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614490585193-EP4JTFMUFMRUGWBSV2ZY/20210225_200358922_iOS.jpg Blog - The Twilight Cone https://wildcraftdyeing.com/blog/ecyvb4jt4r6njuophbuzfuwj2icoxz monthly 0.5 2021-05-17 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143230349-1T53HRBBBFWA5TRTOW50/IMG_5887.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - SpiritSong Studio 2-ply sock yarn with 85% wool and 15% mohair This wool carried a beautiful luster and is quite soft. The question was - would the mohair take the dye noticeably darker than the wool? SpiritSong Studio https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143375995-7293WDNQNK3TTALCB98H/IMG_5888.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - SpiritSong Studio Lopi-style 100% wool yarn SongSpirit Studio - Lopi chunky 100% wool https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143472139-RO4D2FFRQVZFKFSHEZG4/IMG_5892.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - The Soak and Scour Gave them a soak https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143513010-AV7FENLI78VFXP4MYVTT/IMG_5903.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - Indigo Vat Got the vat going - 10 minute dips with 30 minute air dry out of the sun. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143641889-7A6FI1Q13SFA4ECFWHO9/IMG_5906.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - First Dip Results of the first dip. Wool yarn on the right from another project and 5th dip. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614143714495-XWDCBHVJ84YNAY8UOE4K/IMG_5931.jpeg Blog - Indigo-go - 3rd and Final Dip After the third dip, the beautiful yarns really showed the depth of colour range they can take on. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/1614486076616-DZBLNY01PWFQYK2306YX/IMG_5985.jpg Blog - Indigo-go - Great dyeing day with indigo! Overall very happy with the results! https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops daily 0.75 2025-05-04 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/5-day-beginners-spinning-workshop monthly 0.5 2025-05-04 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/4ce0a543-0e5f-495e-94cc-824c9b41d258/Untitled+design+%281%29.png Upcoming Workshops - 5-Day Beginner's Spinning Workshop - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/indigenous-ways-of-knowing-two-eyed-seeing-natural-dyeing-weaving monthly 0.5 2025-03-17 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/wool-fiber-workshop monthly 0.5 2025-03-17 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/historical-tablet-weaving-using-the-warped-in-method monthly 0.5 2024-07-17 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/how-to-dye-with-plants-and-mushrooms monthly 0.5 2024-07-17 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/dyeing-to-weave-natural-dyeing-for-historical-band-weaving monthly 0.5 2024-07-09 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/natural-dyeing-workshop-for-indigenous-youth monthly 0.5 2023-07-05 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/lessons-from-the-forest-mushrooms-lichens-and-plants monthly 0.5 2023-06-16 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/natural-dyes-on-silk-and-historical-tablet-weaving monthly 0.5 2023-06-16 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/natural-dyeing-with-mushrooms-lichens-plants-with-zoe-mcdonell monthly 0.5 2022-05-03 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/how-to-dye-with-fungi-and-lichens monthly 0.5 2022-03-29 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/dyeing-with-indigo-demonstration monthly 0.5 2022-01-18 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/29790ed9-7733-4ab2-a2bf-6fda914dfa4f/20210222_195905418_iOS.jpg Upcoming Workshops - Dyeing with Indigo: Online Demonstration - Make it stand out Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference. https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/natural-dyeing-with-plants-mushrooms-and-lichens monthly 0.5 2021-11-16 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/reconnected-indigenous-youth-summer-camp monthly 0.5 2021-06-30 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/foraging-and-dyeing-with-plants-and-mushrooms-blending-traditional-coast-salish-knowledge-with-science-baxf6 monthly 0.5 2021-10-14 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/upcomingworkshops/foraging-and-dyeing-with-plants-and-mushrooms-blending-traditional-coast-salish-knowledge-with-science monthly 0.5 2021-06-18 https://wildcraftdyeing.com/about daily 0.75 2026-03-31 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/3ad83ff9-ab80-4cac-94e8-f375dd09b90b/IMG_4236.JPG About https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6031931f9eb00c6a38b5b003/611c6728-6e11-440a-a3e6-218925fa810b/Zoe_Plane_2025.jpg About Explore the nexus of nature, fiber and history as we enrich our art, lives, clothing, regalia and more through colour. 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