Wildcraft Dyeing

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Umbilicaria angulata

This is the project that started my interest in dyeing with lichens. I wanted to recreate two silken tablet woven pieces that were recovered from matching wrist-bands or cuffs from a wealthy male grave in the Danish Viking Age settlement of Bjerringhøj in present-day northern Denmark (Walton 1991, pg 139). The cuffs have historically been referred to as the “Mammen cuffs”, in reference to the Mammen burial mound itself. The 10th Century mound contains an extraordinary array of fine textiles, the cuffs themselves are one of the most exceptional textile finds from the Viking Age due to the complex tablet weaving and intact state (Knudsen 2005, pg. 40). While their original purpose remains a mystery, they may have had a ceremonial purpose, or to indicate high social status and/or wealth.

Follow up - after the silk, I dyed a pair of Viking Age leg wraps which started out as white wool. They came out a truly luminous purple. Not especially resistance to sunshine, but eye-searingly purple none the less.